Every month curators of the Asia and Pacific Museum carefully select one object representing various parts of our new permanent exhibition “Journeys to the east” through the cultures of the Middle East, Central Asia, Mongolia and Indonesia, to which we will invite You as early as 2022.

In July we pay particular attention to a mongolian coat – deel, which is a garment typical of Mongolia. Deel is a long coat with a stand-up collar, and is fastened on the right side. This means that the left flap reaches deep over the right one. It is worn with a belt (especially in the case of men). This way a kind of spacious “pocket” arises for handy items such as a snuff-bottle and a bowl, which can be reached with the right hand while riding, when the left hand is holding the reins.

The cut is kimono type, i.e. the sleeves are cut together with the entire garment, not sewn separately. The coat is brown with a lining in the same colour. The material used is silk damask, and in the lining – artificial silk (viscose). The lower edge of the coat, of its flaps, sleeve cuffs, and the collar are trimmed with dark blue fabric. The surface of the coat is decorated with large, round medallions filled with intricate, dense floral pattern and surrounded by a meander. The patterns are produced in the process of weaving and here they are slightly less glossy than the background. The material used indicates that it is a festive coat; cotton is used in everyday ones.

The cut, colors and ornamental patterns are typical of Mongolian costumes. This coat is a man’s garment, judging from a rather large size and dark hue. Usually, women wear the same coats, but lighter in hue. In the winter version, the coats are lined with fur and have much longer sleeves to protect the hands. Buddhist monks (lamas) also wear such coats, but red and without a stand-up collar, only with a triangular neckline.

These coats are not bought, but sewn to order. Children’s sizes are also ordered. The set includes caps of various types and long shoes, and mainly for men – a belt in the form of a wide silk sash that is wrapped a few times around the waist, or a wide leather belt. Until a century ago, specifically Mongolian boots with upturned toes and thick soles were worn.
The deel is an essential part of the national costume of Mongolia. Today, it is worn in cities for festive occasions, but outside the cities it is a basic garment. Only the cap is often replaced by a foreign element – a hat or a baseball cap.

Mongolian coat – deel
Mongolia, 1st half of the 20th century
silk, viscose
satin weave, machine sewing
length 135.5 cm
MAP 13083

Photographs by Łukasz Brodowicz (the Asia and Pacific Museum)